Monday 23rd April
Monday morning in the Pyrenees, very cold. We set off on our ride after taking a photo of the road sign to Santiago de Compostella.
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| The distance we intend to ride |
3km down the road we were so cold that we pulled into the first bar in Burguete for coffee and toast. When we came back out of the bar we felt the first rain drops. Adding more clothes we carried on, almost unable to wait to ride up the first hill to get warm. The rain soon stopped and the sun began to break through. Our intention for this first day was to ride the roads rather than the actual camino because we had already seen some very muddy bikers. Our schedule for the first day was to go through Pamplona and stop at an albergue in Cizur Menor (approx 46 km). We arrived at the Albergue Maribel Roncal at about 1.30 p.m., just in time for lunch in a local restaurant.
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| Town Hall in Pamplona |
In the Albergue at Cizur Menor, many walkers were starting to feel all their sore spots after their 3rd day of walking. Some New Zealanders were off-loading some gear and sending it back home to lighten their packs. Having panniers on the bikes didn´t cause us the same problems.
Tuesday, 24th April
We left the albergue early in the morning to begin the climb up to Alto del Perdon. We were riding the camino as we understood it was bikeable up to the top, but were told to ride down the other side on a minor road and not the steep, stony path. Whether we missed the cycle way, or our information was incorrect, but the path up to the Alto de Perdon is certainly not rideable in the latter stages, and especially not after rain. But we made it to the top and spent 20 minutes clearing off the mud with sticks. Our ride down the other side (on the minor road) was cold and we arrived in the small village of Obanos for breakfast, accompanied by Cold Play on the TV in the bar.
The rest of the day we rode the minor roads. The sun was out and a light breeze blowing.
We stopped to eat our lunch in Ermita de San Miguel, just before Estella. It was windy and we had a brief rain shower whilst sitting inside the ermita. After riding down into Estella we then continued to the Fuente del Vino where we filled up with water, and, OK, sampled the wine.
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| Self explanatory!!! |
Still concerned about mud we continued on the road to Azqueta where we had a rest on a bench before continuing. We were diverted by the biking signs onto a fabulous track at Villamayor de Monjardin and rode this all the way to Los Arcos. We headed for Albergue de la Abuela. This was a fantastic place to stay, owned by a young family. The house was the grandmothers old house and it has been renovated sympathetically, keeping all the old tiles and woodwork. We went out for a pilgrims meal and on our return were told that at 8.30 p.m. the sun would strike a panel over the door of the church. This happens only a few times a year and today was one of the occasions. We went to the church to see. The next time this phenomenon will happen is (I think) 16 August this year.
Wednesday, 25th April
We left Los Arcos on a bright morning, riding a mixture of tracks and minor roads. We got lost in Logroño. Riding in the traffic sometimes means that we miss left turns for the camino. Eventually we found the road out of Logroño towards Parque Natural de la Grajera. (Interestingly, the camino is shared by mountain bike routes which are not just following the camino, so care needs to be taken by walkers.) We continued on a mixture of tracks and roads to Azofra. I had picked out the Albergue at Azofra as one to head for. A twin bedded room was just what we wanted. On arrival at the Albergue we were taken down the road to an overflow area. Apparently a Portuguese group of 50 had taken over most of the Albergue. They were supported by vans and had their own physio and masseuse, who proceeded to take over the kitchen area, laying people out on the benches to drain blisters! and massage legs (and other parts). Very disappointed to be relegated to the overflow.
Thursday, 26th April
We left Azofra hoping to ride to Ages. Unfortunately the wind made us change our plans. The wind was so strong that we were having to cycle downhill as well as on the flat and uphill. We got as far as Villambistia, battling with wind and mud, when the rain also started to slow us down. We decided to get as far as Villafranca de Los Montes de Oca and stop in the Albergue there. We stayed in the Albergue San Antonio Abad, where we met some very nice, interesting people with whom we shared the afternoon and evening.
Friday, 27th April
We left the Albergue in rain. We headed uphill immediately. We passed some of the pilgrims we had spent the previous afternoon and evening with. After a few words with them we continued. We expected to meet them again at the bar in San Juan de Ortega. By the time we arrived at the bar we were cold and very wet and a hot cup of coffee and pastries were very welcome. Aaron from America, joined us in the bar, and also a lady pilgrim from South Africa who was a very fast walker. After leaving the bar we continued in the rain, climbing uphill in mud and limestone before descending the other side down towards Burgos. We decided to try the left route into Burgos to avoid the busy roads. We managed about 25 metres on the track before the bikes stopped in the mud.
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| Photo of the bike AFTER cleaning off some of the mud |
We arrived at the Albergue in Burgos, many kilometers short of our intended destination. Because we were so cold, wet and muddy we decided to stop. The hospitaleros at the Albergue were very helpful and told us to bring our bikes inside, even though they were so muddy. We got showered, spread out all our wet belongings and went out for lunch. Later that day we met the South African lady again.
Saturday, 28th April
We left Burgos on a damp, grey morning. We stopped in Tardajos for breakfast and then continued on. We rode some nice, wide tracks in a light rain. Just after we passed San Bol a man in a 4wd vehicle stopped us to advise us to ride the road to Hontanas and Castrojeriz instead of the track as the track was in bad condition. Happy to comply we rode the 13km to Castrojeriz on the road. Unfortunately for us, the road was downhill or flat all the way and we got colder and colder. On arrival at Castrojeriz all we wanted to do was to book into somewhere to get warm. Unfortunately, we were too early for the albergues. We went into a bar for a coffee and decided to continue. Luckily!!! leaving Castrojeriz meant that we had to climb uphill to Alto de Mosterales. This climbing meant that we got warm and we managed to keep fairly warm on the descent and on the subsequent ride along muddy tracks to Boadilla del Camino. Pilgrims were calling out to tell us we had muddy backs, from the spray from the wheels, but once we were muddy we didn´t care.
We arrived at the albergue En el Camino, an albergue we wanted to stay at. They had a hosepipe to clean off the bikes and outside sinks to wash the jackets and panniers. They also have a fantastic albergue with woodburning stoves and hot radiators. We had another wonderful afternoon and evening with pilgrims, most of whom we had passed in the last kilometers into Boadilla, and they told us what they had been saying about the conditions of our bikes and clothes as we had passed them. Some of the comments could not be written here!
Sunday, 29th April
We left Boadilla del Camino on a grey, but dry, morning. We stopped for breakfast at Revenga de Campos and then continued to Carrion de los Condes where we were able to buy some oil for the bikes even though it was Sunday. We applied the oil and then continued across the meseta on the gravel track, which on a bike is quite a nice ride but for some of the walkers it was a tough section. We had lunch at Calzadilla de la Cueza and then continued on to Bercianos del Real Camino. We stayed in the albergue there but went out to the local bar for an evening meal.
Monday, 30th April
Continued on minor roads in sunny, breezy conditions. Eventually managed to get through Leon to continue along the N road. Had a sandwich at Valverdede la Virgen and then alternatively rode and sheltered from rain and hail until we arrived at Villadangos del Paramo. We arrived across from the Municipal Albergue just as the rain was starting again and so we went in. I was so cold I got into my sleeping bag and, apart from a visit to the toilet and to clean my teeth, I didn´t move again until the following morning. I was so cold it took 12 hours to feel warm again. I also felt a little sick and didn´t want anything to eat. The hopitalera at this albergue was an employee of the local council and didn´t seem to want to do the job at the albergue. She was very abrupt and wouldn´t put on any heating or light the fire. Not a good example of hospitaleras and the only one we met that was like this.
Tuesday 1st May
Spain Day. Left the albergue and rode to Puente de Orbigo and had breakfast there. Cold but dry morning. We arrived in Astorga as they were setting up for the Spain Day celebrations in the square. Walked through the town to see the sights and then continued on.
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| Setting up the a fiesta in the square in Astorga |
We wanted to pass the Cruz de Ferro today and to stay somewhere on the descent. We decided to stop at the parroquial albergue in El Acebo. The hospitalera Nuria, a volunteer from the region of Murcia was so different from the last hospitalera. We all stayed in the albergue for the evening meal and were entertained by a Korean singing his own songs. Later that evening a bowl of spirit was set alight and Nuria read out loud whilst an Italian ladled the spirit. It´s hard to explain this. After putting out the fire we all had a taste of the hot spirit.
Wednesday, 2nd May
We left El Acebo and descended to Ponferrada. We had thought about climbing O Cebreiro today but were advised by some Spanish bikers to stop short and do the climb the next day. That was their intention also. We agreed it might be a bit too far to ride and do the climb as well so we stopped for the night at Las Herrerias in the albergue owned by a Spanish woman from Barcelona and her American partner. This was the first place that was concerned about bed bugs and asked us if we had had any problems with them. The were determined to keep their albergue bed bug free. We had lunch in a local bar and spent the afternoon reading and talking with a Canadian couple and the hospitaleros.
Thursday 3rd May
Left the albergue in light rain and started the climb to O Cebreiro. We cycled the minor road all the way to the village and then rode a short off-road section. At Alto do Poio the rain was very heavy with a little sleet also. Once we began the descent we got so cold. We stopped at Fonfria for coffee and to get warm. We considered staying there but it was too early. We put on a few more layers and continued down the hill. We decided to stop at Triacastela even though it was still only 1 p.m. We opened the door of Albergue Aitzenea and stepped inside. The hospitalera was so welcoming and gave us a plastic bowl each to put our wet clothes into. She then washed and dried everything for us. There were people still sheltering in the albergue who had stayed there the night before and they were waiting for better weather to venture out. They left shortly after we arrived in a short sunny spell. Unfortunately the sun didn´t last for long so I suppose they got very wet also.
Friday, 4th May
Leaving the albergue in a light rain we decided to ride the roads again and took the route through Samos. From Sarria to Barbadelo we took the camino as we couldn´t work out the road route, except for riding the N-road. From Barbadelo to Portomarin we continued along the camino following the arrows. We were again riding through mud and slurry! Just before Portomarin we encountered our first negative comment from an Irish man who said we should be on the roads. Funnily enough we had just passed them walking five-a-breast on a road! It seems to us that some people are not aware that the camino is a multi-use route, sometimes on footpaths, sometimes on tracks and at other times on roads used by vehicles. I think their comment was only a joke as we always rang our bells as soon as we approched any walkers.
As an aside, we were told by a group of English women walkers that our bells were the first they had heard all along the camino.
From Portomarin we continued along the roads until we arrived at Palas de Rei.
In the albergue we draped our wet clothing on one radiator, leaving the other free for any other pilgrims to use, and relaxed for the afternoon. In the evening we went to the nearby Pulperia where we ate well on octopus and salad, washed down by a bottle of red wine.
Saturday, 5th May
Our final day of riding. We left Palas de Rei on a grey morning, but dry. Again we decided to ride the roads because of the mud. We tried a short section through a woodland on tracks but decided that it wasn´t worth riding off road. We continued for most of the day on the roads until we were near the airport and then we were diverted onto the marked route which took a mixture of tracks and minor roads. We sheltered under the motorway bridge in torrential rain before deciding to risk it and push on to the end. Once in Santiago we missed the signs and ended up down the hill near the railway station and had to ride back up through the city until we found the Cathedral! We headed for the Pilgrim´s Office and were approached by a man touting for business for his hostal. We took a room there (quite old and basic, but clean). We even had the bikes in the room with us.
After showering we went out to explore and have a meal.
Sunday, 6th May
Did some more exploring before the Pilgrim´s mass in the Cathedral at 12 noon. Because it was the first Sunday of the month the mass was packed and the Botafumeiro was swung. Although we are not religious it was a wonderful experience.
Monday, 7th May
Hired a car and drove all the way back along the route to Roncesvalles to pick up our car and drive back home.
To finish. Looking back we feel that the Camino experience was one that we would hate to have missed. We are now looking into riding the Via de la Plata, from Sevilla to Azofra or riding the Camino Sanabria to Santiago. We hope to do this later this year, possibly at the end of October and hope to have slightly better weather.
